Feeling the need to stir from our sloth, and unable to self-drive in Luang Prabang, we hired a car and driver to take us into the hills to visit Kuang Si waterfalls one day.
An unexpected delight was to stumble across a rehabilitation centre for moon bears (so-called because of the distinct white cresent moon-shaped marking on their chests). These poor creatures had been held in captivity in appalling conditions so that bile from their stomachs could be harvested for use in Chinese medicine. Although this evil practice is illegal, poachers are still willing to hunt these beautiful bears, and charity rescue centres such as this one are doing a great job in protecting the bears and publicizing their plight.
Once in the rescue centre, their nightmare is over, their wounds can heal, and the bears can play and recover in peace.
Reluctantly dragging ourselves away from the bears, we didn't have to walk far into the forested hills before we found ourselves gawping at an unbelievably scenic series of turquoise pools set against a backdrop of bamboo and ferns. The water falls from a great height, then flows across huge boulders and natural rock formations to form a placid stream and a succession of smaller, gentle waterfalls. No-one else was around, the early morning air was clear and still, and it wouldn't have been surprising if Bambi had stepped from behind a rock to drink from the sparkling waters. Magic.
If you'd like to see this pristine Paradise, go soon - heartbreakingly, the footings for a massive restaurant are already down only yards away.
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